108 scents and 189 fragrances guided by vintage perfume collector ISP

From the raw materials and history of perfume to the products and their characteristics
The basics of perfume life: everything about fragrance, starting with the scent notes.

Bergamot, cedarwood, white musk.
These terms are called notes or fragrances.
This is an expression used to distinguish between the various scents contained in one perfume.
Jo Malone's 'Lime Basil & Mandarin' contains notes of mandarin, basil, and amberwood.
We will take a closer look at popular and diverse fragrance families such as citrus, woody, animalic, and floral, as well as families that may feel relatively unfamiliar, such as chypre, marine, and gourmand.
By the time you finish reading, you will feel as if you are smelling the fragrance just by reading or hearing the description.

Bergamot, like other citrus fruits, has a clean, cool, and tart scent, but it also has grassy, ​​herbal, lavender-like notes and floral notes.
So it gives a much more complex and rich scent, which creates a beautiful effect when used in perfume.
--- p.18, from "Citrus"

Oud is a fragrance created when mold or bacteria invade agarwood.
The scent comes from the resin, a substance that trees make to protect themselves.
Agarwood that has not undergone a bacterial invasion process has no scent.
--- p.31, from "Woody"

Just because leather scents are included in perfume doesn't mean that actual leather is soaked in alcohol to extract the scent.
Chanel's 'Cur de Russie' uses the scent of birch tar to create the scent of leather.
Le Labo's 'Patchouli 24' also contains a birch scent.
--- p.66, from "Animalic"

Other citrus fruits are sometimes used in place of bergamot, and blends of patchouli, vetiver, and musk are sometimes used to recreate the rich, dark feeling that oakmoss imparts.
Of course, those who love the unique feel of oakmoss will not like it at all.
--- p.103, from "Cypre"

The perfume that first sparked the gourmand fragrance boom was Thierry Mugler's 'Angel'.
It has notes of patchouli, cotton candy, and chocolate.
It expressed the contrast between the sweet cotton candy scent and the bitter, dark, woody patchouli, and after the release of this perfume, many perfumes began to use sweet dessert scents.
--- p.112, from "Guermande"

Some people wonder if tuberose is related to roses because of its name.
It's a completely unrelated plant.
Unlike roses, it is a bulbous plant.
It is difficult to obtain fresh flowers in Korea because they are native to Mexico and cannot survive the winter in Korea.
--- p.129, from "Floral"

Immortelle flowers have a very peculiar fragrance.
There are floral notes, but also spicy notes like tobacco, hay, and curry, and very sweet notes like honey or maple syrup.
--- p.137~138, from "Floral"

Calon, a chemical used to describe the scent of water, was developed by Pfizer in 1951.
They said that they had been researching it for use as a medicinal herb, but as they were not seeing much effect in that regard, they began to look for a method and began to pay attention to its unique scent.
It went on sale in 1966 and was patented in 1970.
A perfume that became a huge hit with its aquatic scent was Davidoff's 'Cool Water' released in 1988.
--- p.147, from "Aquatic"

When talking about aldehydes, you can't leave out Chanel 'No. 5'.
If you've ever smelled Chanel 'No. 5', you'll remember that it initially smells very cold and crisp.
It's aldehyde.
--- p.154, from "Aldehyde"

“If you change one or two ingredients (of a perfume), especially if they play a big role in defining the scent, it becomes difficult to perfectly reproduce the perfume,” said Maurice Roussel, a famous perfumer who created fragrances such as Guerlain’s ‘Insolence,’ Le Labo’s ‘Jasmine 17’ and ‘Ladanum 18,’ and Frédéric Malle’s ‘Musc Lavageur.’ He pointed out that “big brands ask me to change this and that, but keep the scent and production costs the same.”

--- p.162, from “Epilogue: Synthetic Fragrance vs. Natural Fragrance”