prolog

Chapter 1: What determines the taste of ramen?
Are there different types of ramen? | Ramen shops that create addicts | Finally, a bowl of 'welcoming' | Common ramen otaku terms | A delicately permeating flavor | Ramen restaurants as numerous as the stars in the night sky | Delicious ramen = umami? | The identity of umami | The mechanism of umami that amplifies flavor | A new taste sensation spreading overseas | The synergistic effect of umami | For even more delicious ramen | A new umami flavor completed with tomatoes | Chew thoroughly to savor the flavor | The synergistic effect achieved by the blend of flavors | The secret of umami seasoning | Taste is the secret to human survival

Chapter 2: Why Hangover Ramen is More Delicious
Ramen is a must after drinking | Carbohydrates are needed when blood sugar levels drop | Why do we binge eat when we get drunk? | Ramen is an excellent source of carbohydrates | Alcohol craves a stronger flavor | A great drink to end a drinking party | A great food to end a drinking party | The irresistible temptation of ramen | How to avoid bloating the day after eating ramen?

Chapter 3: The Science of Chewy Noodles
What is 'homemade noodles'? | Mikawaya Seimen, a noodle company specializing in ramen | The taste and types of wheat flour | The secret to the flavor of Japanese wheat | The relationship between curliness and water content | What happens when you make ramen with pasta flour? | Kansui, which determines the properties of noodles | Why Chinese noodles are yellow | Coating noodles with egg whites | What is kansui? | Adding to Chinese noodles | The role of propylene glycol | The secret to long-lasting noodles' crispiness | Developing kansui for each purpose | The effects of kansui | People who hate kansui | The mysterious unit, Baumedo | A special ingredient in Chinese noodles | How wheat becomes flour | The taste of Japanese wheat | The transformation of wheat hulls | The elasticity added when rinsed in water | Blending without harming the broth's flavor

Chapter 4: The Flavor of Ramen Changes with Temperature
I Don't Know Tsukemen | So I'm Going to Eat Tsukemen | The Right Temperature and the Best Flavor | The Balance of Flavors Determined by Temperature | What Happens When You Add Umami | The Contrast and Suppressive Effects of Flavors | Sourness Disappears Quickly | Is Coffee Pudding Ramen Tasty? | Eating Lukewarm Ramen

Chapter 5: Are chemical seasonings ramen's friend or foe?
Are there people who hate ramen? | Chemical seasonings that lower the cost | A trio that destroys taste | Can't we achieve both flavor and nutrition? | The circumstances of a store owner who doesn't use chemical seasonings | The limitations of commercial broth | What to eat with ramen for nutritional balance

Chapter 6: Instant Ramen: The Crystallization of Oil and Drying Technology
Is Instant Ramen Dangerous? | Visiting the Cup Ramen Museum | The Birth of Cup Ramen | The Man Who Ate Ramen Every Day for 50 Years | Making the Dough | Noodle Making and Flash Drying | Fierce Competition at Convenience Stores | The Surprisingly Low Calories in Instant Ramen | The Safety of Ramen Oil | Misconceptions About Endocrine Disorders | Instant Ramen Takes Over the World

Chapter 7: Reproducing the Flavor of a Ramen Masterpiece with Science
The hit of the ramen brand "Myeongjeom Jeonseon" | A neighborhood where udon soup comes out of the faucet? | The legendary beginnings of Myeongjeom Jeonseon | I want to emulate the taste of a famous restaurant | Infiltrating the development site | The secret of liquid soup | Advances in sterilization technology and preservatives | Flavors that don't depend on chemical seasonings | What is yeast extract? | Types of ramen soup according to drying method | For consumer food safety | The principle of salinity | What instant ramen and potato chips have in common | Changes in soup flavor depending on concentration | The relationship between umami and salinity

Chapter 8: Even the sound of eating ramen is delicious.
Why do Japanese people eat "zuru-zuru"? | Ramen onomatopoeia in comics | Reading and listening to taste | Food expression marketing | Japanese dining tables as seen through search terms | Onomatopoeia of meals that change meaning | AI writes lyrics for idol songs | Research on onomatopoeia starting with taste | Sound impressions | What is the most delicious sound chosen by AI? | Analyzing the sound of eating ramen | The most delicious sound of "slurping noodles" | Is "slurping noodles" only done by Japanese people? | "Choru-choru" and "slurp" | The mechanism of flavor | The nature of the food culture of sucking noodles

Chapter 9: Why People Line Up Only in Front of That Store
The Secret to a Great Restaurant | Is the Soy Sauce Different? | Is the Oil Used Different? | The Fantastic Combination of Oil, Sugar, and Glutamic Acid | Trying Pork Fat Ramen

Epilogue

After reading it, your stomach and mind will feel full!

Ramen is Japan's national food in name and reality.
There are approximately 50,000 ramen specialty stores throughout Japan, and about 5.6 billion instant ramen bowls are produced annually.
But the popularity of ramen is not limited to Japan.
The number of instant ramen noodles consumed worldwide each year is a whopping 97.7 billion (p. 164). In a 2011 CNN survey to select the "world's most delicious dishes," ramen was ranked 8th, and there is even a ramen shop that received a one-star rating from the Michelin Guide, beating out numerous gourmet restaurants and high-end restaurants.


Korea's love of ramen is no less than Japan's (of course, there is a difference in that ramen in Korea mainly refers to instant ramen).
According to statistics from the World Instant Noodles Association (2015), each Korean ate about 75 packages of instant noodles per year.
Indonesia came in second with 50, Japan third with 43, and China fourth with 35, boasting an overwhelming amount of ramen consumption.


In this way, ramen is one of the most wonderful and popular menus in the world, beyond Japan and Korea.
Tomokazu Kawaguchi, a leading Japanese science communicator, was also a ramen eater.
But then suddenly this question occurred to me.
"Why is ramen so beloved? Or rather, what makes ramen so delicious?" The questions kept coming back to haunt me.
"Does the broth taste better the more ingredients you use? Which pairs better with broth: chewy noodles or well-cooked noodles? Does lukewarm ramen taste better? Why does alcohol make ramen more appealing? Are ramen made with chemical seasonings really bad for you?" and so on.

To find the answer to this question, he visited famous ramen shops and ramen museums to taste ramen, visited ramen manufacturers and noodle and flour milling companies to make ramen himself, and conducted experiments and analyses at university research institutes and ramen-related associations.
We also added vivid voices by interviewing experts from various fields, including ramen shop owners with decades of experience, nutritionists, food columnists, researchers, ramen company employees, and ramen otakus.
To unlock the secrets of ramen's flavor, we utilized physics, botany, materials engineering, molecular biology, neuroscience, linguistics, AI, and big data analysis. To understand the people who make ramen, eat it, sell it, and reject it, we looked into various academic disciplines related to ramen, including history, economics, society, culture, psychology, and anthropology.

In this way, "If Ramen Was Science" delves into the various curiosities, questions, misunderstandings, and truths related to ramen through the scientific principles and common sense hidden in the noodles and broth.
In that sense, this book is an exciting educational book that satisfies the intellectual hunger of readers, and an excellent culinary exploration book for ramen enthusiasts.
Above all, this book embraces a wide range of readers, from teenagers to adults, with the author's characteristically humorous narrative and explanations tailored to the level of non-specialists.

The reason ramen is delicious is directly related to human survival!
The Secret of Umami, the Fifth Taste That Determines the Flavor of Soup

Japanese ramen enthusiasts and otakus refer to the ramen they ordered being placed in front of them as "reception." (p. 19) Now, let's imagine that we have "received" a generous bowl of ramen.
What's the first thing you'll do? Sure, some people might smell the fragrant aroma of the steaming hot food or savor the appetizing visuals, but most likely, they'll taste the soup first.

Numerous ramen shops strive to create their own unique broth flavors by boiling, simmering, and mixing together bones and meat from pork, chicken, beef, and lamb, as well as fish and seafood such as anchovies, mackerel, sea bream, squid, crab, clams, and clams.
Even within Japan, ramen is categorized into “toripaitan (chicken) type, seabura (pork fat) type, nibonibo (anchovy) type, fushi (fish) type, gyukotsu (beef bone) type, etc.” (Page 14 of the text) Depending on the ingredients used to make the broth, the broth is an important element that determines the taste and characteristics of ramen, to the point that there is a saying that it is “the life of ramen.”
The author also defined ramen broth as “a combination of various ingredients that creates maximum umami flavor” (p. 67). Here, we can see that the backbone of ramen broth flavor is umami.

The basic broth for ramen is usually dashi (broth) made by boiling kelp or bonito flakes.
However, it is no exaggeration to say that this broth is “the umami flavor itself” (page 29) as it is rich in umami components such as glutamic acid, inosinic acid, and aspartic acid.
In particular, glutamic acid is a type of amino acid that makes up proteins, and is a representative savory ingredient that is used as a main ingredient in chemical seasonings. (Page 28)

“It is actually dangerous for food to enter the mouth.
Because you might end up eating bad food.
Sweetness is important for survival as it provides energy.
Sourness may indicate spoiled food, and bitterness may indicate poison.
Therefore, newborns dislike sour or bitter tastes.
Umami is a signal that protein has entered the body.
So, we can enjoy sweet and savory tastes.” (Page 45)

The reason we love ramen broth is because glutamic acid, which is the savory ingredient, is abundant in protein, an essential nutrient for our body.
In other words, the act of preferring good tastes, including umami, and rejecting bad tastes, and even the act of enjoying ramen broth, are all unconscious actions directly related to our survival.

This is not the only effect that umami has on our bodies.
Umami helps the flavors of various ingredients blend well or emphasizes one or two special flavors.
However, if the flavors of too many ingredients are mixed together, the overall balance of flavors is lost and we end up feeling that it is not tasty.
It is the same principle as “mixing all colors makes black” (page 119).
Just as we find cake delicious because it has a strong salty and sweet flavor, ramen should also have a strong salty and savory flavor.
At this time, the savory taste brings out the salty taste more.
You can achieve a sufficient saltiness in your cooking even with less salt. (Page 43) Therefore, if you use umami appropriately, it can be directly helpful to patients who need dietary control, such as those with high blood pressure or diabetes.

Would it taste better if you slurp it down?
The mechanism of flavor through the types of noodles and 'noodle grinding'

Now, let's go back to the 'welcoming' ramen.
Once you've tasted the broth, the next thing you'll want to try is the noodles.
Ramen noodles have different unique flavors, textures, colors, and aromas depending on the type of flour and additives, water content (ratio of water to flour), dough and fermentation level, and noodle making method.
Additionally, there are various types depending on the method of making them, such as thick noodles, thin noodles, curly noodles, straight noodles, smooth noodles, and rough noodles.
And depending on how well they are cooked, some people prefer chewy noodles, while others like them well-cooked.

Ramen enthusiasts often refer to the act of soaking the noodles in broth as "slurping the broth" (p. 20). So, what kind of noodles are good for "slurping the broth"—that is, noodles that absorb the broth well? Many people assume that curly noodles absorb the broth better, but that's not necessarily the case.
“From a fluid dynamics perspective, there is also the view that straight surfaces absorb liquid better than curved surfaces” (page 77).
The degree to which noodles absorb broth varies depending on the curliness of the noodles and the mix of dough ingredients, but the most crucial factor is how well the noodles are cooked.

For example, if you boil noodles that should be boiled for 1 minute for only 30 seconds, the noodles will absorb the broth deeply.
Instead, additives such as kansui (a raw material mainly composed of potassium carbonate or sodium carbonate, added to the dough to provide color, flavor, moisture, and elasticity to the noodles) and preservatives contained in the noodles dissolve into the broth. (Page 101 of the text) In other words, while chewy noodles may be tasty because they soak up the broth well, the flavor of the broth is altered by the additives.
Conversely, if you cook the noodles sufficiently, the taste of the broth will not change, but the broth will not absorb as well.
Choosing noodles that suit your taste and preferences is the first step to enjoying ramen more deliciously.

On the other hand, when choosing how to eat, it is necessary to consider the socio-cultural background.
In most countries, including ours, making loud noises while eating is considered rude and bad manners.
So when eating ramen, you either bring one chopstick at a time to your mouth, put the noodles on a spoon and eat them, or roll them up on your chopsticks or fork and eat them.
But most Japanese people do 'myeonchigi'.
Noodle slurping is a method of eating noodles by putting them in your mouth and sucking them in. The sound made when doing so is called "zuru-zuru" in Japan and "slurp" in Korea.
In other words, slurping is the act of eating noodles.

There is a saying in Japan: “Make the soba broth white” (page 230).
This means that you should make it white because the broth may splatter if you wash it.
Additionally, a Japanese IT company has developed a smart fork that detects the loud noise made when brushing teeth and plays music through a connected smartphone to mask the sound.
To that extent, noodle-slicing is a representative part of Japanese food culture. (Page 222) But why do Japanese people, unlike people around the world, practice such a noisy noodle-slicing? The reason is to better enjoy the flavor of ramen.


Japanese soup stock is very simple compared to that of other countries.
Because the aroma is so weak, in order to perceive the savory taste of amino acids more strongly, more air and smell must be mixed at high speed to amplify it. (Page 229) The aroma perceived in this way is the essence of flavor.
Behind long-standing eating habits lies a hidden mechanism for enhancing flavor.

Why You Crave Ramen After Drinking
Science Creates Memorable "Ramen of a Lifetime"

The most delicious 'ramen of my life' is countless, from a late-night snack eaten at 2 a.m., a meal eaten after skipping breakfast and lunch, a snack eaten at a PC room, a sauna, or a fishing spot, a bowl of soup eaten after shivering for three hours in the middle of winter, and even a single chopstick stolen from a pot my younger sibling has just boiled.
Among them, many people would say that hangover ramen, which they seek out after drinking, is the most delicious ramen.
Why do we crave ramen more when we drink alcohol? Our body's physiological needs are at play here, too.

When our body begins to break down alcohol, a substance called 'NADH' is produced.
This substance converts pyruvate, a raw material needed by the liver and intestines to make sugar, into lactic acid.
In other words, when we drink alcohol, our body cannot produce as much sugar as it needs, so our blood sugar level drops, and to compensate, we crave sweets like ice cream or carbohydrates like ramen noodles. (Page 52) In addition, alcohol has a diuretic effect, making us feel thirsty and dulling the sensation of the tongue.
Ultimately, we find ourselves looking for a more stimulating broth (moisture). (Page 56)

This is why hangover ramen tastes better, and why it's hard to resist the temptation of ramen after drinking.
However, eating ramen and going to bed can have negative effects, such as gaining weight due to excessive calorie intake, feeling bloated the next day, or having puffy face and body.
A nutrition expert the author met recommended drinking a sports drink if you find yourself craving ramen after drinking.
One 500-milliliter PET bottle can provide all the sugar and salt needed to break down alcohol and also relieve hunger.
Moreover, sports drinks contain almost no fat, so there is no need to worry about gaining weight. (Page 57)
There are times when ramen is more appealing than after drinking.
It's when you watch someone sitting next to you, or the main character of a 'mukbang', slurp loudly and enjoyably eating.
The most decisive effect that makes us gulp at this time is the 'slurp' sound of noodles being slurped.
In Japan, the sound made when eating ramen is expressed as 'zuru-zuru'.
But which expression sounds more delicious, 'zuru-zuru' or 'hururuk'?

Each sound in a word, the sound of a language, has its own impression.

“We believe that our brain infers the meaning of various expressions by connecting the sounds of words with the characteristics or impressions of objects.
So it is possible to find the same meaning using AI.” (Page 215)

The author analyzed the impressions given by 'zuru-zuru' and 'hururuk' using the 'taste expression language evaluation system' developed by Professor Sakamoto of the Japan Electro-Communications University using AI.
As a result, 'Zuru Zuru' gave off a slightly dark, cold, uneasy and unpleasant impression, as well as a good texture and aftertaste.
As an imitation of taste, it wasn't the worst.
On the other hand, 'Hururuk' gave a relatively bright, warm, soft, and smooth impression.
In other words, it was closer to a more delicious expression than 'zuru zuru'.

Are chemical seasonings friend or foe to ramen?
Solving the Biggest Mystery: The Link Between Instant Ramen and Health

Everyone has probably had this worry at least once while eating a delicious bowl of ramen.
'Isn't the chemical seasoning in ramen bad for my health?' In fact, there are people who don't even look at ramen for this very reason.
That's why, in Japan, chemical-free ramen shops that don't use any chemical seasonings at all have become popular.
In fact, the harmful effects of ramen and chemical seasonings have been a long-standing issue among people, but these days, with increased interest and concern about health, it is even more concerning.
Is it really true that ramen made with chemical seasonings is harmful to our bodies?

In conclusion, chemical seasonings that comply with each country's food additive safety standards are safe. (Page 130) Therefore, ramen made with these chemical seasonings is not harmful to our bodies.
However, the author says that just because chemical seasonings have no effect on our bodies does not mean that there are no problems at all.
Using chemical seasonings can make cheap and delicious ramen, but the ramen will lack the nutrients our bodies need.
Moreover, the excessive salt content and high calories in ramen are more concerning than chemical seasonings.


So how can we address these weaknesses in ramen? The author presents solutions from nutrition experts and employees of an instant ramen manufacturing company.
In other words, it is advised to use umami appropriately to reduce the saltiness of ramen, and to supplement calcium, magnesium, dietary fiber, and vitamins by eating vegetables or nuts when eating ramen. (Page 139 of the text) It is also advised to avoid consuming more calories than necessary, such as not adding seasoning or leaving the broth behind.

While the use of chemical seasonings is a crucial topic for protecting consumers' health and food safety, the author suggests that we should broaden our perspective a bit and consider the difficulties faced by store owners and manufacturers.
There are a limited number of chefs with the skills and know-how to make delicious ramen, and it takes a long time for other employees to acquire this.
Additionally, efforts to reduce costs are necessary to sell ramen to consumers at a reasonable price.
The author likens this to “putting an unnecessary burden on the shop owner because you expect good ramen to be served is like killing the chicken that lays the golden egg” (p. 137).


So, what's the best way to use chemical seasonings that satisfies both sellers and consumers? The author suggests, "The best way is to use plenty of ingredients to create a delicious broth, then add a little bit of chemical seasoning at the end to adjust the flavor" (p. 135).
Furthermore, from a scientific perspective, there is no risk of chemical seasonings, but it is important to distinguish between safety and peace of mind.
This emphasizes that in order to enjoy a more 'smart ramen life', consumers themselves must be proactive and take the lead.

The Secret to the Addictiveness of Delicious Ramen
We are captivated by the happiness and memories that ramen brings.

'Ramenjiro' is one of Japan's representative ramen shops.
Vegetables, meat, and pork fat are piled high in a ramen bowl.
The taste is so amazing that it has enthusiastic fans called "Jirorians" and there is even a saying that if you visit Ramen Jiro three times, you become "addicted" from then on. (Page 235) The British newspaper "The Guardian" also selected Ramen Jiro's ramen as one of the "50 must-eat foods in the world."

Some ramen is not just delicious, but also addictive, almost like a drug.
People are willing to wait in line for three or four hours just to taste a bowl of this ramen.
What makes people crazy about ramen?
When humans eat delicious food, beta endorphins are secreted in the brain, which act on the neurotransmitter opioid to make them feel good.
However, this process is similar to the way morphine or heroin affects our brain.
In other words, as the author boldly concludes, “good taste is a kind of drug.”


But the author says our fascination with ramen isn't just a simple brain trick.
The reason why people continue to 'welcome' ramen is because "whether it's a bowl from a famous restaurant or a bag of instant ramen sold at the supermarket, the ramen maker's wish to bring joy to the eater is contained in the bowl.
And because it offers "small but precious happinesses: the comfort that warms you to the core, the satisfaction of exhaling after emptying a bowl, and the joy of sitting side by side and eating with others" (p. 6).

This book, which started with the curiosity of 'Why on earth is ramen so delicious?', delves beyond the secrets of taste to 'the addictive nature of ramen.'
And that journey makes you realize that the addictiveness of ramen lies not in its novelty or rich flavor, but in the memories and happiness it brings.
In that sense, "If Ramen Was Science" can be said to be a book that strengthens not only your stomach and head, but also your heart.