Learn the basics of clothing making with the curriculum of a famous French fashion school.
A pattern design guide with infinite applications for any body type!
A comprehensive guide to creating circular patterns for tops, sleeves, skirts, and pants.

Forget those pattern books that simply follow along! Pattern design is the most fundamental step in garment making, the starting point that determines the direction of the entire production process.
Only by properly understanding the principles of why each part of a garment is designed that way, what adjustments are needed depending on the design, and what areas to pay special attention to, can you acquire a solid foundation of knowledge that can flexibly adapt to various body types and styles.


- Basic design structure of top, sleeves, skirt, and pants
- How to properly measure your body measurements to fit your body type
- Tips to avoid common mistakes in the pattern design process
- How to modify and transform patterns according to your design

This book is structured to help readers easily understand the basics and principles of pattern design step by step based on the above content.
Following the actual curriculum of a famous French fashion school, it systematically teaches the basic circular pattern drawing method of tops, sleeves, skirts, and pants, which are the core of clothing composition.
If you master the basics, you can create any design you want.
It contains explanations and rich image material that can be used immediately in practice, providing sufficient depth and practicality for both fashion students and practitioners working in the field.
For readers who already have experience with pattern design, this book will provide an opportunity to review the basics and solidify the system, and for beginners, it will serve as a reliable companion to start making clothes on their own.

The pattern includes all vertical and horizontal lines drawn arbitrarily on the body.
Only after going through several construction steps can a pattern be created from which the fabric can be cut into desired pieces and the desired sample (finished pattern) be created.
At each step, new lines are added, and the lines added are distinguished by their purpose.
Distinguish between circular patterns, basting patterns (basic correction and verification), lines reflecting corrections, and lines used in cutting patterns.

It is rare to redraw a circular pattern at each stage of construction.
The flat pattern is used by gradually modifying it into a finished pattern (cutting pattern), and at this time, all lines are usually drawn on the same drawing.
For the final drawing to be clear and easy to read, the lines at each step need to be clearly distinguishable.

--- p.13, from “Basics”

To create a custom pattern design that is as close to the garment pattern and silhouette as possible, you need to take accurate body measurements.
At this time, it is best not to hesitate and ask others for help.
Of course, even if the measurements are incorrect, they can be corrected later through fitting.
However, it can be a long and tiring task and there is the hassle of having to repeat the same task over and over again.
In reality, the process involves redrawing the pattern based on body measurements, sewing, reflecting the modifications on the fabric, and then recording them on the pattern.
And then cut the fabric again and sew it again to check.
If it still doesn't fit well (for example, if there's an issue with the upper body fit), you'll have to go through this whole process again.
Before repeating these tasks, if you accurately determine your body measurements from the beginning, you can save time and achieve accuracy at the same time.
--- p.18, from “Basics”

Like the back shoulder dart, the shoulder dart prevents the vibration line from spreading.
In particular, it is essential to apply the basic circular pattern to create clothes that fit the body well.
The default value of the shoulder dart can be derived from the dart that enters above the shoulder slope line.
Shoulder darts vary depending on chest volume or circumference.
When making a pattern based on standard measurements, 1cm is added to the default value, but for custom patterns, the amount of darts is increased or decreased to fit the chest volume during fitting.
Even though shoulder darts are located on the shoulder line, they can be moved anywhere around the chest depending on the cut used or the model you are creating.
--- p.49, from “Consultation”

When designing a basic circular pattern or a finished pattern, several types of basic allowances are included.
The allowance added to the measurements is absolutely necessary and may vary depending on style, fabric thickness, or personal preference (loose clothing).
The basic circular pattern includes only the minimum allowance corresponding to the seam thickness, which is rarely used in clothing pattern design.
The expansion of the trouser circle pattern adds extra height and width.
At this time, it is important to anticipate the amount of leeway in advance.
Otherwise, the pants may be too tight and difficult to wear.
Since you can't try it on to see if it fits, it's difficult to tell if it fits your body type or if the fabric flows nicely.

--- p.150, from "Pants"